One of the fun things we like to do when we are on a road trip in Eastern Portugal is to hop across the border to Spain. We have enjoyed many day trips, but we have also popped across for a picnic in Spain, and returned to Portugal - just for the novelty factor of going between the two countries!
Earlier this year, we found a great little town called Olivenza (or Olivença in Portuguese), and it has a fascinating history. It was founded by the Order of the Templar Knights in the 13th century, and was under Portuguese sovereignty almost continuously between 1297 and 1801 when, during the War of the Oranges, French and Spanish troops captured the town. When the Treaty of Badajoz was signed on 6 June 1801, Olivenza was kept by Spain.
Filled with white houses, and paved sidewalks, it has been voted one of the Most Beautiful Villages in Spain since 2019. According to Spain, the Treaty of Badajoz has never been revoked, so Olivenza is in Spain. According to Portugal, the treaty was automatically revoked when Spain invaded Portugal in the Peninsular War of 1807 as this broke the terms of the treaty.
Portugal also says that the Treaty of Vienna of 1815 says that Spain must return the town. While Portugal has never made a formal claim to try to get Olivenza back, the country has never officially recognised the town as being part of Spain.
Nowadays, the town still follows its Portuguese tradition, and while Portuguese was once banned in the town, it is now taught in schools. We heard a great tale that sums the situation up - at the start of this century, a new bridge was being built across the river. Portugal refused to fund it as they feared that it would mean acknowledging where the border lay between Spain and Portugal. The EU stepped in to pay. Portugal also stopped Spain from restoring the old bridge, once again fearing it would mean acknowledging the new border! Amazing what you can learn from a quick hop across the border.
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